Basic Olson 25 Tuning Advice
Pearls of Wisdom
Most of this information was volunteered by one of our founding fathers, Bill Reilly (PEARL). He dominated the class for much of the early years, as a quick glance at the Perpetual Season Trophy will tell, and was generous in passing on his tricks. We've updated it a bit, as knowledge has improved, but you'll find it offers you a good basic set-up for all conditions. Godspeed.
KEEP IT SIMPLE: Ideas from "Pearl."
Rig Tuning
Adjust the foreguy turnbuckle to allow the mast to rake as far as possible aft. Center the mast thwartship using a steel tape measure. Mearsure from the masthead (via the main halyard) to the clevis pins on the chainplates. Then, while sighting up the mainsail luff groove, use the intermediates and lowers to place the mast in column. For determining proper shroud tension use Loos tension guages: Model A for 1/8 and 5/32 wire and Model B for 3/16 wire. Set the 3/16 uppers to 980 lbs. the intermediates at 625 lbs. and the lowers at 700 lbs.
Backstay Adjuster
Construct a 48/1 cascade arrangement using Scfaefer wire blocks #05-41 (1), #33-11 (2) plus a 6/1 Harken tackle made from a #095 triple bullet block and a #086. The ends of this can be lead to the main traveller and held in place with a cam cleat on either side of the cockpit.
Vang
Use an 8/1 system which has a 1/8 wire block attached to the mast bale. We recommend replacing the standard bale with one of 3/8 diameter or, preferably, the special Ballenger bracket. Fasten one end of the 1/8 wire to the boom bale and pass the other through the block at the mast and up to the fiddle block with the cleat. Attach the other end of the 4/1 fiddle block system back to the boom bale. We recommend positioning the fiddle block w/cleat about 12 inches from the mast base to allow for easier trimming while heavy air reaching.
Flattener
Use the standard outhaul system to flatten the main and use a reef line for the outhaul. It is recommended to replace the mini cam cleat with the next size larger (alum. race,jr.) and replace the shackle with a long D shackle.
Topping Lift
Replace the plastic cam cleat with an aluminum Harken and move the cleat 1 3/4 inches forward to give a fair lead when cross-sheeting during spinnaker reaches.
Primary Winches
A 1 1/4 inch teak pad under the winches will help prevent overrides and backing plates, or large fender washers, under the deck will help keep the deck from flexing.
Rudder Post
To avoid having grit washed into the post's lower bearing glue a 2 inch PVC coupling to the deck with Rule Marine Sealant. For extra protection you can fabricate a canvas boot to cover the coupling.
Twingers
Lead them to exit from the toe rail approximately 42 inches aft of the chainplates. You can use small, #166 Harken bullet blocks fastened to the toe rail with little bow shackles.
Mast Exit Sheaves
It is very important to rinse the sheaves with fresh water after sailing. We've used a lubricant called Break-Free on them twice each month with very good results. This stuff is tenacious and has eliminated the problem.
Footnote:
Though these guidelines were a treasured item long ago, today most of the boats seemed to have been modified more along the skipper's/crew's personal taste. As such it is highly recommended to go take a look at what the other boats have done. Remember, check out the fast ones, don't be in a hurry, bring a pencil and paper, and ask questions if you have the chance!